Stud Poker learn to play online at Full Tilt 100% deposit bonus offer

On fourth and all successive streets, the betting always starts with the player showing
the highest board. If two or more players have the same high board, the betting
begins with the player closest to the left of the stud button.

The betting on fourth street normally proceeds at the lower limit. If, however, any
board shows an open pair, any player may choose to bet or raise at the higher limit.
Once a bet has been made at the higher limit, subsequent raises must be at the
higher limit. For example, in a $2/$4 game, the betting in fourth street normally
proceeds in increments of $2. If one of the players has an open pair, that player has
a choice of betting either $2 or $4. If that player bets $2, any other player can call
the $2, raise $2, or raise $4. Once a bet or raise of $4 has been made, the betting
must proceed at $4 increments.

On fifth street, the betting starts at the higher limit, and remains at that limit through
the final round of betting. After the last round of betting, the software will award the
pot to the best hand.

Stud Hi, or seven-card stud, is probably the poker game with which those who have
played only in homes are most familiar. Stud Hi is often the most popular game in the
cardrooms of the Eastern United States and many parts of Europe.

Home games often feature unusual variants of Stud Hi, sometimes involving wild
cards and replacements. You won't find these online or in brick-and mortar
cardrooms (b&ms).

As in most forms of poker, Stud Hi uses a standard 52-card deck. The game is
played at an eight-handed table.

Each new hand of Stud Hi begins with each player putting an ante into the pot. The
ante is a payment into the pot before cards are dealt for the purpose of stimulating
action. For example, in a $2/$4 limit game, the ante is 40 cents. Each player must
ante each hand to receive cards.

When you first sit down at a table, you get dealt in immediately, after being prompted
to ante. Since Stud Hi does not have blinds, you do not have to wait.

In Stud Hi, the deal position does not rotate as in blind games. The nominal deal
position is indicated by a white disk called the stud button. The stud button is always
by seat 8, and each new deal always starts at seat 1. The first card of each
succeeding round always goes to the first active player (one who either has equaled
all the bets thus far, or has gone all in, that is, run out of chips with which to call) to
the left of the stud button. If you rotate the table to change your position, the stud
button also rotates. This makes it clear where the deal position is. This is important in
those few situations in which two or more players have identical boards. After the first
round, if hands are tied, the hand closest to the left of the stud button begins the
betting.

When the antes are in place, the dealer distributes two cards face down to each
player and then one card face up, starting with seat 1. The two downcards are called
hole cards. Your hole cards appear face up on your screen, but don't worry; only you
can see your hole cards. Only the backs of every other player's hole cards appear
on screen. Every other player has a similar view, with only his own hole cards visible.
You can tell which are your hole cards and which is your upcard, because the hole
cards are situated lower than the upcard. You can see the upcards of all the other
players, and they can see your upcard.

Stud Hi, as any form of poker, is about betting. Stud Hi has five betting rounds. The
sizes of the bets depend on the structure of the game. All Stud Hi games at Full Tilt
Poker are limit games. Usually the first two rounds are at one level, and the next
three at double that level. There is one exception to this, in which sometimes the
second round of betting is optionally at the higher level. We'll get to that in a moment.

Third Street
On the first round (known as third street), the betting starts with the player having the
lowest upcard. This bet is a forced bet. The bet must be at least a specified minimum,
in which case it is called the bring-in, but can be more. The bring-in is usually
one-fourth the lower limit. If two or more players have the same rank of upcard, who
must make the bring-in is determined by suit, in reverse bridge order (clubs,
diamonds, hearts, spades). This is one of the few times that suits have any bearing
in poker. For example, if three deuces appear on the first round in this order, 2s, 2h,
2d, the holder of the 2d would be required to make the bring-in bet.

In the picture above you have the lowest card. You must make a bet. You have two
choices only. You can:

open for the bring-in
complete the bet, that is, increase the bet to the lower limit
You choose your action by clicking in a dialog box. While you can always complete
the bet, you will find players usually open for the minimum. If everyone folds, you win
the antes, and the next hand is dealt.

Normally everyone would not fold for a bring-in, however.

If you open for the bring-in, each succeeding player has three choices:

fold
call, that is, match the bring-in
complete the bet, that is, increase the bet to the lower limit
If you or anyone else completes the bet, each succeeding player has three choices:

fold
call, that is, match the bring-in
raise, that is, increase the preceding bet

Each player in turn has the same three choices. If there has been a raise, each
player who chooses to continue must either call the total bet thus far or himself raise.
In any one round of betting, there can be a maximum of one bet and three raises.
The bring-in plus the completion count as one bet in the first round. For example, in
a $2/$4 limit game, you open for the 50-cent bring-in, another player completes the
bet to $2, and then two players raise. That makes the total bet $6. This is the
equivalent of three bets, and another player could make one more raise. Doing so
would cap the betting for that round, that is, cause it to reach the maximum.

If you fold for a raise, your cards are removed from play and no longer appear on the
screen.

Fourth Street
Once the betting for the round is equalized, that is, once everyone has had an
opportunity either to fold or match the total betting, the dealer deals each active
player a second upcard (fourth street). Players still in the hand participate in a round
of betting.

The betting on fourth street normally proceeds at the lower limit. The exception is
that if any board shows an open pair, any player may choose to bet or raise at the
higher limit. Once a bet has been made at the higher limit, subsequent raises must
be at the higher limit. For example, in a $2/$4 game, the betting on fourth street
normally proceeds in increments of $2. If one of the players has an open pair, that
player has a choice of betting either $2 or $4. If that player bets $2, any other player
can call the $2, raise $2, or raise $4. Once a bet or raise of $4 has been made, the
betting must proceed in $4 increments. Specifically, if one player starts the betting at
$2 in a round in which an open pair appears, and someone raises that bet by $4, you
cannot reraise by $2.

On fourth and all successive streets, the betting always starts with the player showing
the highest board. If two or more players have the same high board, the betting
begins with the player closest to the left of the stud button. In the picture, since you
are closer to the stud button than the other player who holds ace-deuce, you are first
to bet.

The situation is exactly the same if the tied hands are pairs. For example, if two
players show 7-7, the one closer to the stud button starts the betting.

Don't worry about having to figure out which player starts the betting. The software
prompts you when it is your turn to act. It also presents all the options available. All
you have to do is click the choice you want.

In all rounds after third street, the player first to act has two choices:

check, that is, make no bet
make a bet at the proper limit for that round
If no one bets, each player in turn has the same choices. It is possible in every round
except third street for no betting to occur. No betting in a round is called being
checked around.

If anyone bets, each succeeding player has three choices:

fold
call, that is, match the bring-in
raise, that is, increase the preceding bet
A player who checks retains his cards. If someone bets, when the action returns, a
player who previously checked has the preceding three choices. To check and then
raise when the betting returns is known, reasonably enough, as check-raising. If you
check with the intention of raising, you of course risk the possibility that no one will
bet.

Fifth Street
Once the betting for fourth street is equalized, that is, once everyone has had an
opportunity either to check or match the total betting for the round, the dealer deals
each active player a third upcard (fifth street). Players still in the hand participate in a
round of betting. The bets on fifth street are always at the higher level.

Sixth Street
Once the betting for fifth street is equalized, the dealer deals each active player a
fourth upcard (sixth street). Players still in the hand participate in a round of betting.
The bets on sixth street remain at the higher level.

Seventh Street
Once the betting for sixth street is equalized, the dealer deals each active player a
final card, face down (seventh street or the river card). Players still in the hand
participate in a final round of betting. The betting proceeds exactly the same as the
three previous rounds.

Showdown
Once the betting for seventh street is equalized, the betting is over, and there is a
showdown. Remaining active players show their cards and the best hand, comprised
of the best five cards from among each player's seven, wins. The software
determines the winning hand, and awards the pot to the holder of that hand.

Players do not show their cards simultaneously. The showdown takes place in a
specified order.

The software shows the cards of the first player to have bet or the last player to have
raised in any previous round. (If there was no betting on the river, the cards of the
first player to have bet or the last player to have raised on sixth street would be
shown first on the showdown-and so on.) If the next active player has a better hand
than the one just shown (or ties it), the software shows his cards. If the next active
player does not have a better hand, the software offers that player a choice. He can
show his cards, if he wishes, or he can just get rid of the cards (muck). The software
treats each remaining active player in turn the same-either turning over the hand if it
is better than (or tied with) any shown thus far or offering the choice of showing or
mucking-and awards the pot to the best hand.

Don't worry about inadvertently misreading your hand and accidentally throwing away
a winner. As long as you have called to the end, the software awards the pot to the
winning hand-and reports in the chat box the value of that hand. You may, for
example, have been concentrating so hard on making a flush that you don't see that,
while you missed the flush, you actually had a straight. The software makes sure that
if your hand is the best at the showdown you win.

If the betting is not equalized on seventh street, that is, one player bet or raised and
no one called, there is no showdown, and the software awards the pot to the player
who made that uncalled bet. This is the case on any previous street, as well. If it
happens on earlier streets, no further cards are dealt, because the hand is over.

Sometimes a player runs out of chips before all the betting is over. In such case, one
or more side pots are created, and the software awards appropriate main and side
pots. When a player is all in, a bet or raise can be made that is not called, but a
showdown still takes place.

Players often do not show losing hands. You are entitled, however, to see any cards
that were active at the showdown even if they were not shown. Click on LAST HAND
to bring up a new window that shows the results of the last hand and all the active
cards. You can also specify in that window any previous hand (up to the last 50 in
your current session) on which to get a report.