Stud Hi Low Hi/Low poker learn to play at full tilt poker online 100% deposit bonus offer

Seven-card Stud Hi/Lo is a variant of Seven-card Stud. The betting, ante, and
bring-in are exactly the same as in Seven-card stud. At the showdown, the pot is split
between the holder of the highest hand and the holder of the lowest hand, if the low
hand qualifies.

To qualify for a low hand, you must have five distinct cards (no pairs), with no card
higher than an 8. Straights and flushes do not count against you. The best 5 card
low hand is A-2-3-4-5 of any suit. The hand is "ranked" by starting with the highest
low card. 7-4-3-2-1 would be considered a 7-low, and would lose to 6-4-3-2-1, a
6-low. If two players each have low hands with the same highest card, the next
highest card determines the winner. 7-5-4-3-2 loses to 7-4-3-2-1. If there is no
qualifying low hand, the high hand wins the entire pot.

The only betting difference is that fourth street does not offer an optional increase in
the betting limit, regardless of any pairs on the board. In Seven-card stud Hi/Lo, the
first two betting rounds are always at the lower limit, and the last three always at the
higher limit.

Just as in the high version of Seven-card stud, each player starts with two hole cards
and one upcard; there are then three more rounds of upcards, with betting after
each card, and a final downcard, followed by a final betting round. Each player ends
up with seven cards: four face up and three face down.

In Seven-card Stud Hi/Lo, each player forms a high hand and, if possible, a qualifying
low hand, using any five of his seven cards. Both the high hand combination and the
low hand combination can use the same set of cards, but they don't have to. As in
Seven-card Stud, aces play both high and low. You may use an ace as a high card
for one hand, and as a low card for another.

Seven-card stud Hi/Lo is a variant of Seven-card stud in which the pot is split
between the holder of the highest hand and the holder of the lowest hand if that low
hand is topped by no worse than an 8. (The 8 is known in the poker world as a
qualifier.) If that restriction is not met, the entire pot goes to the holder of the highest
hand. Also, the same hand can win both the high and the low half of the pot. Winning
the whole pot in either of these ways is called scooping. See "Hand Rankings" to see
how low hands are determined and what beats what.

The game is also called seven stud high-low, Seven-card stud 8-or-better,
Seven-card stud split, or Seven-card stud/8 (and indicated on the lobby tab as Stud
H/L). This game should be familiar to those who have played only in home games.
Seven stud high-low is also popular in many brick-and mortar cardrooms (b&ms).

How the Online Game Differs from Home Games
Home games often feature unusual variants of Seven-card Stud Hi/Lo, sometimes
involving wild cards and replacements. You won't find these online or in b&ms.
Another home game variant you won't see is the declaration, in which players
indicate at the showdown whether they're going high or low-or both ways. That home
game variant never has a qualifier, and a player has to win the half of the pot for
which he "spoke." A player can win the low half, for example, without actually having
the best low hand-if the holder of the best low does not declare properly. Any hand
can win the low half of the pot-even a pair or worse-as long as it is the lowest hand to
declare low.

Online and in bricks and mortars, "cards speak." What this means online is that at
the showdown the software determines which hand is best for high and which for
low-providing a hand qualifies for low-and awards the pot accordingly.

General
Just as in the high version of Seven-card stud, each player starts with two hole cards
and one upcard, and then the dealer gives each active player three more upcards,
and then a final downcard. Thus each player ends up with seven cards, four face up
and three face down. The difference between Seven-card stud high and Seven-card
stud Hi/Lo is that in Seven-card stud Hi/Lo each player can potentially have two
different hands, a high hand and a low hand. Each player forms a five card high
hand by using five of his seven cards. Each player forms a five card low hand by
using five of his seven cards. Both the high hand combination and the low hand
combination can use the same set of five cards, but they don't have to; in fact,
usually they would not. For example, if your seven cards are Kh 8h 5c 4h 3h 2s Ah,
your high hand is Ah Kh 8h 4h 3h, an ace-high flush, while your low hand is 5c 4h 3h
2s Ah, a wheel. Here is a hand that uses the same five cards for low and for high: Ks
Qh 8s 7d 6c 5h 4c. The high hand is an 8-high straight and the low hand is 8-7-6-5-4.

As in most forms of poker, Seven-card Stud Hi/Lo uses a standard 52-card deck. The
game is played at an eight-handed table.

Each new hand of Seven-card Stud Hi/Lo begins with each player putting an ante
into the pot. The ante is a payment into the pot before cards are dealt for the
purpose of stimulating action. For example, in a $2/$4 limit game, the ante is 40
cents. Each player must ante each hand to receive cards.

When you first sit down at a table, you get dealt in immediately, after being prompted
to ante. Since Seven-card Stud Hi/Lo does not have blinds, you do not have to wait.

In Seven-card Stud Hi/Lo, the deal position does not rotate as in blind games. The
nominal deal position is indicated by a white disk called the stud button. The stud
button is always by seat 8, and each new deal always starts at seat 1. The first card
of each succeeding round always goes to the first active player (one who either has
equaled all the bets thus far, or has gone all in, that is, run out of chips with which to
call) to the left of the stud button. If you rotate the table to change your position, the
stud button also rotates. This makes it clear where the deal position is. This is
important in those few situations in which two or more players have identical boards.
After the first round, if hands are tied, the hand closest to the left of the stud button
begins the betting.

When the antes are in place, the dealer distributes two cards face down to each
player and then one card face up, starting with seat 1. The two downcards are called
hole cards. Your hole cards appear face up on your screen, but don't worry; only you
can see your hole cards. Only the backs of every other player's hole cards appear
on screen. Every other player has a similar view, with only his own hole cards visible.
You can tell which are your hole cards and which your upcard, because the hole
cards are situated lower than the upcard. You can see the upcards of all the other
players, and they can see your upcard.

Seven stud Hi/Lo, as any form of poker, is about betting. Seven stud Hi/Lo has five
betting rounds. The sizes of the bets depend on the structure of the game. All
Seven-card Stud Hi/Lo games at Full Tilt Poker are limit games. The first two rounds
are at one level, and the next three at double that level.

Third Street
On the first round (known as third street), the betting starts with the player having the
lowest upcard. This bet is a forced bet. The bet must be at least a specified minimum,
in which case it is called the bring-in, but can be more. The bring-in is usually
one-fourth the lower limit. If two or more players have the same rank of upcard, who
must make the bring-in is determined by suit, in reverse bridge order (clubs,
diamonds, hearts, spades). This is one of the few times that suits have any bearing
in poker. For example, if three deuces appear on the first round in this order, 2s, 2h,
2d, the holder of the 2d would be required to make the bring-in bet.

In the picture above you have the lowest card. You must make a bet. You have two
choices only. You can:

open for the bring-in
complete the bet, that is, increase the bet to the lower limit
You choose your action by clicking in a dialog box. While you can always complete
the bet, you will find that players usually open for the minimum. If everyone folds, you
win the antes, and the next hand is dealt.

Normally everyone would not fold for a bring-in, however.

If you open for the bring-in, each succeeding player has three choices:

fold
call, that is, match the bring-in
complete the bet, that is, increase the bet to the lower limit
If you or anyone else completes the bet, each succeeding player has three choices:

fold
call, that is, match the bring-in
raise, that is, increase the preceding bet

Each player in turn has the same three choices. If there has been a raise, each
player who chooses to continue must either call the total bet thus far or himself raise.
In any one round of betting, there can be a maximum of one bet and three raises.
The bring-in plus the completion count as one bet in the first round. For example, in
a $2/$4 limit game, you open for the 50-cent bring-in, another player completes the
bet to $2, and then two players raise. That makes the total bet $6. This is the
equivalent of three bets, and another player could make one more raise. Doing so
would cap the betting for that round, that is, cause it to reach the maximum.

If you fold for a raise, your cards are removed from play and no longer appear on the
screen.

As you evaluate your cards, realize that since this is a Hi/Lo split game, good cards
can be low cards as well as high cards. You want to end up with a hand that is best
for either high or low-and, ideally, one that can win both high and low (scoop the pot).
Keep in mind the qualifier. If you are trying to build a low hand, cards 9 and higher
lessen your chances. Compared with Omaha Hi/Lo, Seven-card Stud Hi/Lo has a
greater proportion of pots split between high and low on the showdown. An Omaha
Hi/Lo pot can have a low only if at least three of the community cards are 8 or
lower-and even then, it sometimes happens that no player can make a low. In
Seven-card Stud Hi/Lo, however, since a player can use any five of his Seven-cards,
the likelihood of a low hand is often quite high.

Fourth Street
Once the betting for the first round is equalized, that is, once everyone has had an
opportunity either to fold or match the total betting, the dealer deals each active
player a second upcard (fourth street). Players still in the hand participate in a round
of betting. The betting on fourth street proceeds at the lower limit.

The only betting difference between Seven-card Stud Hi/Lo and Seven-card Stud is
that in Seven-card Stud Hi/Lo the appearance in anyone's board of a pair on fourth
street does not offer an optional increase in the betting limit. In Seven-card stud
Hi/Lo, the first two betting rounds are always at the lower limit and the last three
always at the higher limit.

On fourth and all successive streets, the betting always starts with the player showing
the highest board. If two or more players have the same high board, the betting
begins with the player closest to the left of the stud button. In the picture, since you
are closer to the stud button than the other player who holds ace-deuce, you are first
to bet.

The situation is exactly the same if the tied hands are pairs. For example, if two
players show 7-7, the one closer to the stud button starts the betting.

Don't worry about having to figure out which player starts the betting. The software
prompts you when it is your turn to act. It also presents all the options available. All
you have to do is click the choice you want.

In all rounds after third street, the player first to act has two choices:

check, that is, make no bet
make a bet at the proper limit for that round
If no one bets, each player in turn has the same choices. It is possible in every round
except third street for no betting to occur. No betting in a round is called being
checked around.

If anyone bets, each succeeding player has three choices:

fold
call, that is, match the bring-in
raise, that is, increase the preceding bet
A player who checks retains his cards. If someone bets, when the action returns, a
player who previously checked has the preceding three choices. To check and then
raise when the betting returns is known, reasonably enough, as check-raising. If you
check with the intention of raising, you of course risk the possibility that no one will
bet.

Fifth Street
Once the betting for fourth street is equalized, that is, once everyone has had an
opportunity either to check or match the total betting for the round, the dealer deals
each active player a third upcard (fifth street). Players still in the hand participate in a
round of betting. The bets on fifth street are at the higher level.

Sixth Street
Once the betting for fifth street is equalized, the dealer deals each active player a
fourth upcard (sixth street). Players still in the hand participate in a round of betting.
The bets on sixth street remain at the higher level.

Seventh Street
Once the betting for sixth street is equalized, the dealer deals each active player a
final card, face down (seventh street or the river card). Players still in the hand
participate in a final round of betting. The betting proceeds exactly the same as the
three previous rounds.

Showdown
Once the betting for seventh street is equalized, the betting is over, and there is a
showdown. Remaining active players show their cards. The best high hand,
comprised of the best five cards from among each player's seven, wins half the pot.
The best low hand (as long as one qualifies by consisting of five different cards 8 or
lower), comprised of the best five cards from among each player's seven, wins half
the pot. The software determines the winning hands, and awards half the pot to the
holder of each hand. If no hand qualifies for low, the software awards the entire pot
to the holder of the highest hand. If the same player's set of Seven-cards consists
simultaneously of the best high hand and the best low hand, the software awards the
entire pot to the holder of that hand.

Players do not show their cards simultaneously. The showdown takes place in a
specified order.

The software shows the cards of the first player to have bet or the last player to have
raised in any previous round. (If there was no betting on the river, the cards of the
first player to have bet or the last player to have raised on sixth street would be
shown first on the showdown-and so on.) If the next active player has a better high or
low hand than the one just shown (or ties it), the software shows his cards. If the next
active player does not have either, the software offers that player a choice. He can
show his cards, if he wishes, or he can just get rid of the cards (muck). The software
treats each remaining active player in turn the same-either turning over the hand if it
is better for high or low than (or tied with) any shown thus far or offering the choice of
showing or mucking-and awards each half of the pot appropriately.

Don't worry about inadvertently misreading your hand and accidentally throwing away
a winner. As long as you have called to the end, the software awards each half of the
pot to the winning hand-and reports in the chat box the value of each hand. You
may, for example, have been concentrating so hard on making a flush that you don't
see that, while you missed the flush, you have an 8 low and it is the best. The
software makes sure that if your hand is the best for high or low at the showdown you
win.

If the betting is not equalized on seventh street, that is, one player bet or raised and
no one called, there is no showdown, and the software awards the pot to the player
who made that uncalled bet. This is the case on any previous street, as well. If it
happens on earlier streets, no further cards are dealt, because the hand is over.

Sometimes a player runs out of chips before all the betting is over. In such case, one
or more side pots are created, and the software awards appropriate main and side
pots. When a player is all in, a bet or raise can be made that is not called, but a
showdown still takes place.

Players often do not show losing hands. You are entitled, however, to see any cards
that were active at the showdown even if they were not shown. Click on LAST HAND
to bring up a new window that shows the results of the last hand and all the active
cards. You can also specify in that window any previous hand (up to the last 50 in
your current session) on which to get a report.